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<\/a><\/p>\nThe controller module can be purchased new, but they are getting more expensive, and I found a good used one on eBay for much cheaper.\u00a0 The controller works by running the motor until it senses the motor is drawing more current (because it has hit something) and then it will cut the power to the motor.\u00a0 That means there’s no adjustments or timing to figure out, just hook the motor up to the doors and they’ll move until they hit the full open or full closed position.<\/p>\n
The wiring harness is optional.\u00a0 It was an easy way to get the 4-position and 5-position connectors that plug into the controller module.\u00a0 You can buy them new, they are metripack connectors.<\/p>\n Here’s what the original Firebird schematic for the headlights looks like:<\/p>\n A few things to note from the schematic:<\/p>\n The basic wiring consists of: 4-position connector #2 labeled ABCD The motor is attached to the headlight housing with two bolts and some spacer washers.\u00a0 The placement is a bit of a compromise between centering the shaft in the hole, and leaving enough clearance for the motor and the gearbox.<\/p>\n With the motor in the right orientation, it hit one corner of the bracket.\u00a0 Cutting a clearance notch allows the motor to sit level.<\/p>\n In order to get the holes lined up as accurately as possible, I marked and drilled one hole, then bolted the motor on, and then marked the second hole.<\/p>\n The bellcrank arm has a hole in the center that is almost the same size as the shaft on the motor.\u00a0 The shaft has two flats on it that provide surfaces to turn the arm.\u00a0 Unfortunately, the original bellcrank hole is too big to make a satisfactory matching oval hole out of.\u00a0 I used a piece of 3\/16″ scrap to make a plate that had the oval hole in it, and then attached that to the bellcrank with a couple of screws.\u00a0 This spreads out the load and also allows it to sit lower on the shaft, which is closer to the stock location relative to the bracket.<\/p>\n To add the holes to the plate, I drilled and tapped one hole, then assembled it temporarily and drilled the second hole.<\/p>\n After the holes are drilled and tapped, I screwed the plate to the bellcrank arm from the back side so it would sit closer to the housing.\u00a0 Assembling it in that order leaves some room underneath that prevents the arm from hitting the inner fender support structures.<\/p>\n I used a couple of sheet metal screws to attach the controller to the radiator support just next to the regulator<\/p>\n One last detail was moving the RS turn signal wiring.\u00a0 The wiring had been run through the area where the headlight doors move, and would interfere.\u00a0 The stock wiring harness goes through a hole in the inner fender.\u00a0 I drilled the holes and rerouted the wiring.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nWiring<\/h1>\n
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5-position connector #1 labeled ABCDE
– A1 – Headlight power signal – light blue wire between headlight and dimmer switches
– B1 and E1 – Always-on power through separate 15A fuses
– C1 -ground for Camaro behavior, connect to parking lights for Firebird behavior.
– D1\u00a0 – ground<\/p>\n
– A2 – Black lead motor 1
– B2 – Red lead motor 1
– C2 – Red lead motor 2
– D2 – Black lead motor 2
(I’m not sure if the wire colors are consistent on all replacement motors, but if the doors open with the lights off, and close with the lights on, swapping the red and black will fix that.)<\/p>\nMotors<\/h1>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\nAttaching the Arm to the Motor<\/h1>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nMounting the Controller<\/h1>\n
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