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Front lighting

The LH marker/turn lamp did not work at all, and the RH one only worked for the turn signal element. I took the lens off of the LH marker and discovered there was no bulb in it at all. I could not get the new bulb into the socket, so I unbolted it from the grille. Unfortunately I broke both of the studs in the process, so I had to drill out the studs and replace them with bolts. The spring-loaded contacts at the bottom of the socket were not moving freely, which explained why I couldn’t get a new bulb in. After some PBBlaster and wire brushing, I got it cleaned up enough to accept the bulb. The RH side I managed to only break one of the two studs, so I only had to drill out and replace one of those. There was a bulb in the socket, but it was very discolored and obviously not in usable shape. It was also corroded into the socket, making it very difficult to remove. I sprayed it down with PBBlaster and let that soak. To remove the bulb, I put some heavy duty duct tape around the end of a tube and taped it to the bulb. After working it around for a while I finally convinced it to come out. A pass with a wire brush shined all the contacts back up, and the new bulb went in. Both the marker and turn lamps work now.

I was pretty sure the dimmer switch was bad, so I ordered a new one in the last batch of parts. I tried cycling the switch a bunch of times to see if I could get it working. The low beams worked, but the high beams did not. When I was trying to unplug the original dimmer switch, it broke and fell apart, so it was good that I had the replacement. The new switch worked the same as the old one, low beams worked but not high. I knew one of the bulbs was bad, so I had ordered replacements for those also. After replacing both bulbs, they both work on high and low beam.

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Bed wiring harness

The rear harness plugs into a socket on the frame, Unfortunately, someone had cut all the wires and used butt connectors to repair that. A couple were connected, but most of the wires had torn apart. I spent a couple of hours stripping wire ends, and splicing in soldered connections to make it all work again. I don’t have a way to check the reverse lights yet, but the brake/turn and running lights are working again,

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Engine wiring cleanup

The fuel regulator ended up wanting to be right where the ignition box was mounted. Additionally, the wiring looms for the ignition were looped around the carb and just laying on the intake.

I decided to move the ignition box to the left inner fender, and leave the regulator alone on the right. The looms were long enough to be able to tuck them behind the engine, and then behind the fender mount point on the inner fender. This hid them and kept them safe.

The green wire is still TBD, so it’s not tucked away. It is the signal to turn on the fuel pump and ignition box power relays. Currently it’s connected to the old coil+ wire because I assumed it would only be active in the start and run positions of the ignition switch. I discovered it’s also active in the accessory position, which makes no sense to me. I’m still deciding how to get a better circuit to drive these that is not active in that position.